The Everest Base camp Story- 14th April to 1st May 2015

A Month Later to the incidence of 2015 Everest base camp avalanche and earthquake am still filling through insurance claim forms for refund and watching landslide videos in Annapurna circuit area on Facebook; I can’t help but ponder over all that happened about a month ago.

Today- a month ago (24th April 2015)- I had achieved my longest and dearest wish held close to heart since I was 18- Everest Base camp! I was there, watching it with these eyes, feeling it with this heart and mind, suffering through all my body parts- i was right there, i had done it!! It was most fantastic, self challenging and fulfilling journey of my life up to this point; which was expected to change my life forever! To make me know my mental strengths and help me resolve clouds of thoughts in mind- it did all that and later something happened which took the experience to overwhelmingly different level. following is story of my journey of Everest base camp in two parts- before and after.

Before

Speaking of Dream

As said earlier, i first dreamed of doing this when I was 18 after certain numbers of treks done in Sahyadris- mountain ranges near my origin city Pune, Maharashtra India. I loved how nature makes you feel small yet great at same time. I loved the peace and sounds in nature, which resonates with your body and soul. I loved how these mountains rain in stars and bathe in sunshine everyday and still standout with their integrity! It made me feel strong from within, knowing that am part of them, part of nature. Anyways by being born in India, close to Himalayas- you generally have special drive to them as if you own them, they are yours and this is how it all started about EBC. For years motherly concerns of my mum, studies, work etc. kept me away from my dream- not away from trekking though! Thank god!

Later after deciding to resign my big busy work role- i thought this is the time I can finally go for it. August 2014 started prepping, trekking more regularly as i conveyed my boss am resigning early next year. Started looking through trip-adviser, group of friends etc. to book the trip in for April 2015 season.

2014 passed like air, 2015 months til march were busy and then I was finally ready to complete shopping for trip. Flights, itinerary was booked, all sorted. After going through various friends who used to be up for treks and been great travel buds in past, I decided am going for it by myself. It did freak me out a bit with my family being super concerned. But bit of lie and telling that am trekking with tourist company etc. calmed everyone down. I was headstrong about going for it- i could see no more but my dream!

Start:  Kathmandu

Finally day appeared, 14th April- I was out of Melbourne, Australia where now I live; to embrace my dream. First day I roamed around in Kathmandu, lanes of Thamel. Lived in Holy himalaya hotel and had accidental candle light dinners with random strangers at Ghia cafe, Thamel. It was all different and I was loving every bit of it. Later dinners with random strangers became more of regular stuff.

Kathmandu felt like India of 90’s when i was in my childhood- similar songs, roads. May be that was additional reason i was enjoying it more. It felt like boarding time machine and going back to childhood. I visited Kathmandu Valley i.e. Swayambu, Kathmandu Durbar square, house of living Nepali goddess(had read about her when i was traveling in china), Monkey temple, Buddha stupa, Pashupatinath. At Pashupatinath last destination, I saw Hindu religious after-death rituals and cremation at “Ghat” (it killed me a bit to see that long after my India times), just took it as part of sightseeing and continued to next destination. Nothing touched my mind or heart maybe this was suggesting me something! While in all that, i was still bit nervous about if i can make to EBC. Walking away from pashupatinath cremation ghat; all of sudden one of “Poojaris” in temple stopped me and gave two “Rudraksha” (symbol of Lord Shiva”)  as “aashirwad” (Blessing) even when I wasn’t actually praying for anything or made “Namaskar”  to god. I was surprisingly pleased, as something like this is considered as good omen in Indian culture. The hands on my head showered energy; I felt it as I touched those stranger old age man’s feet. I packed rudraksha in my bag and went along my way.

Monkey temple was beautiful with views of Southern kathmandu, budhha stupa was the biggest stupa in asia as suggested by my guide. The Royal palace in durbar square are now converted into museum-it had essence of few indian cities or places i have visited in past, museum and display embedded history and living styles of Nepal beautifully. I loved Kathmandu, simple people, 90’s song lyrics from India and overall speed of life from 90’s which is hard to see in world I live now a days. They were all relaxed and were giving me feel of time travel to past.

Lukla: (En-route Monjo)

Then next day alarm rang 3 ish am and i was supposed to start for my 6.15 am flight to Lukla. Started at 5.30 am from hotel, got packed, moved unnecessary luggage to storage in hotel, cross checked all list, wore layers of thermals, fleece, held extra jackets in hand. I was at airport, guide got my luggage checked in gave me tickets and contact name for next guide from Lukla and left. I was waiting for my flight at airport with 100’s of trekking groups and here i bumped into my first travel mates Nova and Britney (from New York) couple had decided to backpack and trek with lonely planet guide book without Sherpa and were boarding same flight as me. We shared special secrets about best view seat locations in flight and finally sat in row on left to get best mountain and cockpit views at same time. Soon we were in flight with 6 others and air hostess giving us candies as best wishes.

 

It was 6.40 am and flight finally took off- we were in clouds. I had heard a lot about this flight and it’s landing to Lukla (2800m) with about 600 meter runway in mountains. Had reality checks on being worst world safety rating for airlines. Beyond facts- I was floating over snow mountains with that annoyingly loud airplane compressor noise- with all odds it was beautiful, calming and palpating. Within 45 mins we were at Lukla airport, my Sherpa (Dawa) quickly found me and i was off with him to my first day of trek. I was catching very first glimpse of mountains- during the slight chaos of landing, luggage collection, finding Sherpa etc.

I had my black tea and was all geared to start walking for day and 4 km’s down the trekking track i met Britney and Nova again. Kept walking on and around at our walking pace. Met my melbourne close family friend Sumit(dada)- he had just made back from base camp that day with his group. He had lost weight, got nose tan and had no more than good luck for me for two reasons. One- i was trekking alone and second– i was hoping to cover gokyo valley, chola pass, Everest base camp and kalapatthar in same trek. ( this was evolved plan in last 3 years when i saw how beautiful these lakes were on various trek blogs). I smiled and started walking again.

It was nicer, new, little tough but not too bad til Phakding (2656m) where i reached for lunch (11.45 am) walking under medium sun. The bells in yocow’s necks ( cross breed of yak and cow) turning routes with valley on one side, pink blushing floral blossom on side trees, small nepali temples and those rotating bells for peace, wish, health and soul. Considering high of first day- It wasn’t much challenging walk and hence i thought i could do more and decided to continue walking to “Monjo” (2835 m) after lunch.

Did I say not challenging, nature might have heard it just then- it was cold anyways but here it goes- it started pouring, route got steeper, narrower, lonelier. It was breath taking beautiful but silence had a scary edge to it, as it was lonely, rainy, cold and moving towards lack on sunlight as we were walking towards 3 or 4 pm with sky covered in clouds and trees blocking remaining sunlight in valley. It kept on getting tougher but come on, day 1- you don’t make judgement so early. You are wet, cold, tired but keep walking and here it was first twist. Not metaphorical, an actual- twisted knee, ouch!!. Managed to find balance through rocks on track held Sherpa’s hand for half and hour after that and trekking poles had HUGE importance post that point in trek. Pain, cold and no sunshine and not knowing how far Monjo is gave me trailer of EBC trek that late afternoon. Finally I made it to Monjo teahouse which was sane, non spooky, filled by many lone trekker.Ohh wait- here you go my self announced trek mates Nova and Britney were right there. I was glad to see them after that disappointing afternoon with knee injury.

I got painkiller had hot water bath, warm cloths and it was time to sit in front of heater. In Monjo, 6pm- was sitting with bunch of strangers all age group trying to fit in area near coal fired heater. There was a chillian girl returning back after her EBC trek heading to varanasi, India all by herself. Was delighted to see single girl trekker. This girl was teacher for autistic kids and finally was out for her backpacking- had interesting chats with her.  There was a research student Zac (Zacharias) with his nepali research assistant Manoj, trying to study nutrition and eating habits of sherpa’s to last in mountains for so long, again a New yorker. An mid 40 firefighter from Thailand, he had stories to tell. A german couple in thier 50’s who had tried to reach EBC second time and had to give up cause of AMS at lobuche. and few more interesting people. 2-3 hours were most interesting ways i ever met people and heap loads of entertaining life stories. It continued to rain whole night, i was in -6 degrees sleeping bag piled up with two blankets. In short cold rainy night with some awesome stories, a little pain and hope for better tomorrow.

En-route Namche Bazaar:

Moving onto tomorrow, on way to Namche Bazaar (3450m), the most difficult path on way to everest base camp. You might get used to the exertion or disappointments in terms of not covering the distance in scheduled time later too but this path is the challenge which make you cross verify “do you really want to do this?”, or ” why this is so important or is it?”. I walked from 7.30 am to 4 pm that day, it was series of many super steep inclines (almost like 80 degrees) you tell yourself no you can’t and then you walk next and then there is next one and it breaks you. It validates you whether you are really ready to take it. You find fast walking, light weight climbers annoying cause the walk is killing you and they are just gliding through the mountains, Zac was one of them. Nova and Britney started early saying meet you again in Namche (3440m)- we weren’t destined to meet again, but in time we been together they are co-traveler best memories. Anyways, back to my knee cause it was in real terms killing me while walking this, nature was still angry at my yesterdays thought of route isn’t difficult enough and hence it was pouring cats and dogs. So ages later i reached namche – with almost zero will power, punching knee pain, wet jackets, discharged battery power and hope to get helicopter back with decision closer to give up 8 year long dream. Yes,it was hard, it was one among few most difficult days of my life up to that point. I almost passed out on bed as we reached tea house, then called up home and cried saying am going to give up, i just can’t take it. This was just day 2!

I woke up about 6.30 pm,washed face and went for dinner- and met a group of Indian climbers heading on their Everest summit. Pain killers had kicked in by then, those stories of last year avalanche and still passion to climb Everest beyond all seen and courage to keep climbing, passion of getting Everest peak below their toe- moved me. They were bunch of less speaking people with powerful words, they bled confidence and “do anything for it” passion- my dream told me once again, you don’t give up after this.  I said, let’s see if you can take anymore. The plan was to keep going until AMS just makes me fall on ground- until then keep walking.

I walked out of dinner room and looked out, there was a beautiful monastery across in mountains from my tea house. I always wondered about people who leave everything and come and live in mountains. “What drives them away from world or this is the real world”. I immediately confirmed with my Sherpa to make sure, we visit it next day- the acclimatization day.

Acclimatization Day Namche Bazaar: (First View of Everest)

Next day early morning was most delightful surprise, i got up at 4 am and sun rays were just landing on just peaks of snow covered mountains, they were sparkling- best view in last 3 days. So today was acclimatization day- we were to trek to 4000 m high to Everest view point. We started 7.30 am climbed as difficult way as it was before, only difference was that, backpack was lighter as we were to return same village again for night stay. This view point was surrounded by innumerable peak views and for first time in life- I saw ” THE EVEREST”,most admired instance of life. Any climber will treasure that view for lifetime. While taking pics at this point with my camera and tripod- i met a Chilean couple from Sandiego who asked me to click their pics and offered to do mine (Andreas and Fernanada)- they later told me they were on same flight as mine sitting behind me. I also visited a museum telling story of how Everest got named Everest. I saw a small monument having a rock from black sea kept next to rock from Everest- i smiled at wishful thinking of human. Overall it was all delightful; most positive day of last 3 trekking days with sun finally out.

After that I visited Monastery, it was peaceful with bells ringing most pleasantly. I walked my way back around 12 pm to hotel, took hot water bath and was sitting in sun without shoes,drying my hair. This is when i met Amol & Pallavi- Indian couple from city where am born and bought up- Pune. They were on Yog trek- practicing yoga techniques along with trek with yoga guide Chandra and tour guide Sumit. Good people and we had lot to chat, being from same part of world. Also met, Nepal born US citizen Ruba- she was different, strong and interesting person to talk to. Overall acclimatization day of namche paid for it’s positivity and half day rest for my knee; which was just enough to keep me going to next day.

En-route to Tengboche:
My knee killed my initial itinerary and I decided to cover base camp first and then head to gokyo and cho la pass which i was now considering to be on second priority. Nova and Britney were going to head on same route that day- if i had gone that way i might have met them again, but unsure if would have been able to write this. Today was another longest trek to Tengboche (3860m) cause you don’t just climb 400 meters altitude. you decline 600 m from current level and then climb about 800 meter, walking approx 10 hours for day 5.30 am to 4 pm. first two mountains ranges and flats were easy but the last hill killed all ease, towards end i was stopping every 3 mins; but stopping was not an option.

In between there was village in valley with most beautiful waterfalls (dudh) “Koshi”, the metal hanging bridges across mountains running over white rushing river/ waterfalls were most spectacular things – one was just before Koshi, few on way to namche. I was never scared of crossing valley with ropes but those walking bridges were most beautiful human made things i experienced in surrounding nature. You embrace all beauty while you walk and keep walking- cause there is no time to stop. Every time you crossed a village there were police posts, to enroll distance covered with your trek license- it helps people tracking better in mountains considering number of mishaps. When i was talking to this post person near Koshi- he told me there is group of 25 Indians from Pune who passed that check post 30 mins before. He was curious to know if I was one among them- I sure wasn’t up to then. I smiled said no and walked ahead. Met few more auzi’s on way to Tengboche- i wondered if i just belonged to two countries, where people love nature most but yeah they were more in number than any other nationalities.

Getting back to Tengboche, I arrived at the well known Tengboche Monastery- it was surrounded by fog and sparkling with rays of setting sun. I decided to walk up to monastery- the board outside says “no shorts allowed” – i thought, with freaking 3-4 degree temperature, snow on surrounding land- why would someone wear shorts here?- but then i saw few “boundless shorts” ( it’s official people category for people who wear shorts irrespective of weather) people and took my objection back. Climbed the monastery stairs and monk asked me to wait until i get called. He waited til another guy walked in and then took us both in their prayer room, asked us to take leather belongings out- it was also,no camera zone. Walking in I saw peaceful gold colored huge buddha statue sitting in center stage with many other small once on sides. Wooden sitting areas with red shawls and praying monks- it smelled, felt something really new, different, which i had never experienced before. Sat there for sometime, embraced the waves and i was about to settle for longer monk signaled for time up and we walked out. When i walked out i could see many young/ kid monks and few others, playing, chatting and working- one monk saw my camera and said you can take photos here, if you like- of course i said! After taking many pics of fog covered mountains and monastery surrounds i walked back to my bag and Sherpa- we decided to make our way to hotel as it has started to get dark.

He told me it’s just 30 mins walk from here, i was waiting to finish that day- tired after climbing down two hills and climbing up one and walking for god knows how long. But how a day can end comparatively easy for me- it had a fun run destined. While climbing down towards hotel area, I saw a man mending a yak. Yak seemed mad and was trying to get out of his hold. I ignored and kept walking ahead and few steps later i realized something is running towards me- damn, yak it was! I started running through rocks, the yak owner ran towards yak my guide ran to stop yak and just before yak could hit me-man held yak from back, my guide pushed him from side and i landed (safely!!) in bush and in pile of mud. Was terrifying enough, owner held yak and made his way back. No more energy for drama, i finally made my way with now newly disturbed twisted knee into teahouse and hoped i could just pass out with no more to say.

 

As I entered the hotel, I could hear people talking in ” Marathi-language” my mother tongue from India. First i thought i was hallucinating after endless efforts to walk up to Tengboche and being alone for quite long time, i am missing home. It was dark as that village had no power and they were planning to start up generator for couple of hours after dead dark. So i couldn’t see who was it. But as i entered the number of voices grew, soon i realized it wasn’t my imagination- it was group of 25 people the check post guy in Koshi told me about. Spoke to many of them; we had tea and decided to go for few image captures before it goes completely dark. There was a small land close to hotel- we walked there for half and hour til dinner was ready. After this day- i walked, stayed on around this group of “Yuvashakti organization”. Went to bed this day, got up at 5 am and it was start of yet another exciting day- next level.

En-route Dingboche:
By now,even if you don’t sleep in night due to air hunger or body pains- you just get up and start walking cause, your mind and brain is in trained to do so. The next day was journey to “Dingboche” (4410 m) most longest but comparatively lighter trek and views along side and at destination are ‘To be lived for’.

Ama Dablam- was most fascinating mountain peaks (two of them) i saw along EBC trek route- they (two peaks) stand out and shine with every sunrise from Namche on til Lobuche trek day. They are easily identifiable and have stand out memory for it’s size and shape.

Dingboche was place surrounded by many peaks- Ama Dablam,Shirtse, Lhotse, lobuche, Sir Thamsherku peak,cholatse, view of Cho la pass and many others. Dawa (sherpa) also pointed me to a small village Periche 200 meter downhill on route to Dingboche which we were supposed to return via on way back. I smiled and thought, let’s just make it to base camp and then think about return.

En route to Dingboche there was village called pangboche where we tool halt for lunch and just before lunch i was now attacked by running donkey. It’s hard when ascending, descending trekkers, locals and animals are walking on same narrow tracks. By this time i had good experience of running through rocks after last Yak experience – i just hoped i don’t get run over by any other animal in remaining trip. The route to Dingboche was comparatively easy, running through series of flat lands with rocks and shrubs situated randomly with fewer inclines. While i was on this way, an yak gave up walking and just sat down- there were few locals and owner of yak  trying to get him to get up and walk by hitting him with stick, make different sounds etc. I looked at yak and realized, that chap is tremendously tired and all they need to do is take load off his back and he should be able to get up. I said that to owner and asked him to load other yak’s in group as try to get this yak up. He did dad and Eureka- Yak decided to get up. Owner was looking at me with praise and i was laughing at fact ” common sense is not common”. Anyways the route was really beautiful, flat and different sort of landscape- i was apparently walking alone in long patch without much trekkers around, was good area to sing out loud and dance along- did that!!

As i reached Dingboche- i was stunned to see the mountain views as said before. Later, I stayed in tea house close to hill, met few more traveler- like a Florida professional photographer who was standing in front of my motel. Exhausted starring at map, trying to figure out which place he was at, later i explained and he stayed in same motel. Then their arrived a Turkish German and a Colombian girl who were trekking through same company. Group was set for dinner, loads of fun story’s of “why this trek” and love of photography. One moment i came out of lounge area and saw the sky glittering with stars by the time i went in my room and got my camera out sky was covered with fog yet again. Watching beauty of nature while walking  whole day and chatting with strangers in night and of course if nature is sane enough in night stare at sky for a hour- all trek days were all about it.

Acclimatization Day Dingboche and peak climb:

Next morning, day 2 acclimatization day in Dingboche- got up 4am and sun was rising beyond the peaks, golden lines highlighting series of mountain ranges had started appearing on canvas of sky. It was freezing cold, I took my camera out took some brilliant landscapes. Then my sherpa got a cup of tea for me and I continued staring that beautiful series of peaks while sipping life saver hot tea. Later it was time for acclimatization walk, got ready to trek again a peak right behind the hotel about 4800m high. There were few peaks behind that up to 5000meter but i decided to not go too far. It was gorgeous view from the peak. I sat there for a while i sun, pulled out my tripod, took some selfies, took loads of captures of mountain ranges. On the way up there was these towers of stones- made for two reasons, one- as identifier of route, second- as remembrance to Sherpa who lost their life on this route. Generally these areas are considered sacred and been tied with colorful peace flag series. With blue canavas of sky, white backdrop of peaks- these flags just standout, golden sunshine reflecting from snow white peaks is a bonus to already breathtaking view.

It was half day trek and then we were back in tea house, i took hot water bath- after 3 days ( facts of trek) and by the time i came out to dry my towel- it was snowing. Light but beautiful, soon snow and clouds killed sunlight and glittering snow peaks. We went back to our tea houses continuing to chat with co-trekkers and another night passed by.

En-route Lobuche:

Next morning next destination Lobuche (4910 meters), it was flat land between series of beautiful, snow covered mountains up to Thukla (4620 meter). Views of Cho la pass on way were just so enchanting, i couldn’t wait to reach there on way back, ‘Dipti’ another girl from Indian trekking group continued to walk along chatting on this path. We spoke for a while, then starred in endless, insane series of mountains with wide open hearts and eyes. Most calming views of life. Just as we reached Thukla crossing a small metal bridge and reached a tea house in 2hours or so; we could see a steep upwards incline- OMG, we were supposed to climb it.

Of course just after tea, i started. It took me 2hours to get upto the top- at top there was big sacred area of stone monuments (as explained before) of all people who lost their life climbing peaks along. Take my word they were countless, i sat there- had a sip of water, glanced through the passion of people to climb impossible and lose their life for it, read few engraved rocks- explaining how/when respective people lost their life. It was liberating to watch that drive in human race, i was one among them- heading on same path, in comparatively easier situations, supported by locals and covered by insurance covers.  When you reach such places- you realize how small and insignificant you are for the nature at the same time when you see that human drive to keep chasing the difficult- you understand greatness of human race. See that’s why i was here, to experience insignificance of your existence yet greatness required to still be alive,passionate.

Upclimb Thukla, enroute Lobuche – i had found my answers, it was achievement, it was lucky to be able to feel it, see it and be thankful for it.Later we continued walking upto Louche via snow covered lobuche peak base camp, it was 30-50cm thick snow on ground which we walked through and rest just snow lands around. Yes, snow had started being part of walking trail now and cold continued to grow post this point. In 3-4 hours post this lobuche peak base camp, I reached Lobuche,. Managed to get a tea house, the one and only 3 storey tea house in village. Looked beautiful, nicely built- standing across a small water stream, opening right into snow mountains and right on route to gorak shep for next day.After a long cold walk  had black tea and some food. (people generally avoid coffee as it dehydrates us and tea with milk is avoided as yak milk may cause diarrhea and vomiting) .

Beyond food that day, I was lucky enough to finally get 1 hour wifi after 2 villages and 3 days since I last contacted my family. I skyped with mom, showed her snow covered mountains from lounge- she looked at my half blue tired face of mine and said, “you saw the snow- isn’t it enough adventure for you?, please come back now” . I laughed and said ” mum this is not first snow of my life, you won’t understand what feeling it is, until you experience it. Don’t worry- I’ll be well and call you back in 3 days as not expecting to have any phone networks post this point. She said take care, message if you can. I was almost floating with thought that i will be at base camp in 24hours now. The thought itself was so energetic.

Rest of an hour, food, lounge, warmth of fire place, conversation with family and dream of being at base camp next day was so pumping that -we decided to climb a bit more on snow mountains right in front of teahouse. Not too high may be 200meters- started with few co-trekkers in tea house (same once from dingboche).  Treking in snow is different sort of high- it kills you but that feeling, fire is something really different. Anyways got crampons on, trekking poles set with all snow wears on- we went up in half an hour. Here it was first faint view of Everest base camp and Khumbu Glaciers, as it was snowing. Not clear enough to take photos but clear enough to make you realize- it’s not too far. 

Funny thing in mountains is you can sometime see the destination and you are still walking towards it for 3-4 hours. This is completely true statement for whole base camp route- you can see it, but it takes ages to reach there. I might have just decided to ignore facts for then- cause heyy i was almost their where i wished to be for 8 loooooooooooong years. As i returned updated Facebook status- “1 day to go base camp”. Plan was to reach gorak shep have breakfast and then head to base camp and return by sunset next day. Kala patthar was planned for day after and then descend.

As i came back from this small climb and rested back in hotel lounge ( in tea houses you find people in lounge until it’s bedtime cause rooms do not have heaters). Right outside tea house the long ” Trishul- weapon of Lord Shiva” was standing giving a different definition to the mountains. I took few captures of sunset; just then i could here helicopter landing on helipad outside this hotel at about 200 meter distance- it had started heavily snowing by then, i walked back in teahouse. Every glance you take in this journey gives you different insight about life, you just embrace it.  Also mountains and weather in mountains changes in flip of an eye lid. Sun had set and it was snowing- cold night to live through. Watching helicopters on this route is quite common, as standard part of medical evacuations for people affected with AMS.  It’s yet another thing you accept like steep climbs, colds, rains.

When i got in- there was Kulkarni kaka (uncle) and Dr. Sachin whom i met while trekking may be at Thukla on way up – they invited me over for game of cards. Kulkarni uncle and his wife (people in thier 50’s, Indian, who had plan to climb Lobuche peak after EBC and to mention this was their second time in last 10years to complete this walk- hats off!!). We played cards for a while, had dinner and then went back for bed- ofcourse every one was excited to start the BIG day.

Way to Gorak Shep:

Next morning 6.30 am after tea and breakfast, i started walking towards Gorak shep. Crossed the water stream and the Indian group was just by side while i walked. I needed that energy in cold and endless walks. They were beautiful, social and caring people. We just knew each other for 3 days but seemed like long time. It was nice to have  their company, bit of laugh while enjoying beauty of nature, starring mountains, taking snaps and embracing peace. It was rocks, snow and yet another long walk. Thanks to our luck -sun was out for couple of hours. On way there, finally saw clear views of everest, everest base camp, kala patthar. I won’t be wrong to say- that’s the last time i saw everest in this trip. Reached gorak shep about 11am. Was drenched because of cold and walk; lied in bed for 30mins with bag and shoes on. AMS ( Acute mountain syndrome) kills your appetite- i might have had 3-4 bread slices and 2-3 cups of black tea in last two days. Glucose tablets were keeping me up. I saw other guys eating food, for first time in 3days I felt like eating bread and omelet- i had 2 slices and single egg. Plan was to walk out to Everest base camp after this.

Journey to Everest Base camp and to a Dream:

I came out and it was snowing badly- everyone in tea house was deciding to start EBC next morning- considering sun comes out for couple of hours. There was something in me which was telling me- if I don’t do this today, i won’t be able to do it. May be i was afraid of falling sick cause of cold. I took that as word, i asked my sherpa if we can go for it now- it was about 1pm in clock on 24th april 2015. My sherpa said but it will be dark by the time we return- i looked at him with hopeful eyes. He looked back and said no problem take your headlights, get your jackets on. I packed boiling hot water in bottle; put inside my snow coat, wore various layers of clothing. camera + back up camera ready and packed.

We started walking- initially it was 300-400meters of snow ground; we walked through it. It had monuments of dead mountaineers; i read them while walking along. While passing by flat ground i would easily see kala patthar on my left. Everest, Pumori,khumbhu glaciers were preety much disappeared in snow. I must admit, as i started walking for 30mins sun came up giving me hope that i may see everest again- but that dint happen. This time as sun got lost behind clouds, it started snowing even more heavier. I met few trekkers returning from EBC. Later all i was doing is fighting cold and walking to EBC- on right side there were beautiful ice formations of khumbu glaciers and on left snow covered pile of rocks, mountains. I continued walking, sipped hot water few times. IT was difficult walk as feet were skidding through snow. upclimb were easier than descends, cause you have no idea if you will be able to stop or not. Glaciers on right were astonishing but scary. I walked along with help of my sherpa. I took many snaps on this way- they are essentially black and white due to rocks and snow. Landscape and inclines were steep, people look like dots in pictures captured, it’s hard to get feel of size of that gigantic landscape and glaciers unless you see size of yak’s and people in comparison.

Finally i was there, THE EVEREST BASE CAMP; opening point had pile of rocks with those colorful flags- i was cold, tired but extremely happy. I jumped, danced, had cadbury. My sherpa took few pics for me- we were both snowed- 5cms of snow every where on body,snow caps. Sat there for brief seconds, glanced at tents, khumbu glaciers. Looked at people roaming around in base camp. That was it, i had finally done it. Ill-fated to not have clear sky and good views on camera; but that satisfaction of getting there finally is beyond words. I jumped a bit more with happiness, had few bites of cadbury- energy source for return. 24th april 2015, 17.30pm- my visit to base camp was finished and here begins story of after, a never completed unfortunate descend.

After

Descend to Gorak Shep through snow:

It had been -9 degrees for 2 days now, base camp was at about -11degrees and snowing badly. Just after expressing all the joy- me and my sherpa started walking back to gorak shep. 18.00 pm in mountains is dead dark, we put headlights on and started making our way back. I was frozen, balancing myself from rocks, fresh snow was acting good in-sense of providing better grip for walking but bad part was that- your feet was going deep in snow- you don’t know how deep it is or if you are at all going to reach up to a rock or you will miss it. On other hand if you try to walk through old nicely flattened snow, it had became slippery. I had crampons on since i started climbing to base camp. We continued in same state for half an hour but with increase in darkness it had started to become even difficult. My sherpa told me to take different path, he said only put next step if you can see the rock, check the rock twice with pole before you step next. This process was slow and took us even more longer to make upto our destination.

After 1 hour 20mins, I was standing on mountain near the initial flat walking trail. Now it had snowed and the water steams around were frozen. He looked at it from distance and said- no we don’t walk through this. I looked at him in pain- it was more than 14hours that day i was walking with 2 bread slices, one omlet and two cups of black tea. He said, follow me. He started climbing towards kala patthar. Kala patthar was snowed under too but atleast that side of mountains had few easily visible rocks. He made me climb another 200meters to make our way back to gorak shep. I almost touched starting point of kala patthar. I reached teahouse about 20.30pm, all co-trekkers who met me on way up and the indian group who was staying in same tea house were worried for me. As none of them had considered walking in that snow. I was finally back. I called out Dipti to show the layer of snow on me, few people hugged me cause i was back and they were relived to go to bed. I cleared the snow, sat next to fire place. looking at how blue i was, seats near fire place got free for me preety quicker compared normal day. People asked me, if i plan to climb kala patthar next day- i said it’s snowing so badly, i don’t expect to see everest next morning. I am going to start my descend, i can’t bear the cold anymore.

I went to bed after having another cup of tea. I slept most relaxed in that tea-house of gorak shep after last 9 days. Indian group was planning to head to EBC that morning. I decided to get up at 7.30am instead of 4am. I walked out of my room and heard people still sitting in lounge. I walked out and asked, how come they were still there- they said snow has grown even further and now they can’t walk ahead- they are planning to give it another day to settle. They asked me if i prefer to stay with them in gorak shep for another day. I said no, i’ll start my descend to-day- i was also started thinking to be able to go for cho la pass after this post lobuche. This was beginning of the 25th APRIL 2015. i got ready had breakfast, took pics with all co-trekkers while playing/ standing in snow. exchanged hugs and i was out of there 9am.

The day of Unfortunate:
I started walking towards Lobuche, snow had made descend even more difficult. i was sliding through rocky routes even after using poles. I finally decided to get my crampon on continued walking about 10.30ish i was tired had another hour to go to reach lobuche- i played around and took few videos of same landscape which i had seen 2days ago in sun and not as much under snow. Cloud had just changed the look of mountains; fog had affected visibility- nothing seemed abnormal. I thought that’s how nature is whimsical, lunatic!! We had experienced it all along the trek in last 10days. finally i climbed down last decline, there were many climbers climbing up towards gorak shep- many coming down by my side behind, ahead of me. I was dreaming about reaching lobuche and finally having warm cup of tea. I started walking on flat snow covered land now, it was part slippery partly fresh snow- here i was about 900meter far from lobuche, i could see the tea house i stayed in. I was happy, cold and hopeful for cup of tea.

In that random millisecond while walking on snow covered land between series of mountains on both side- earth started shaking, it was small shake initially. For a second i though, it might be something normal in himalayas- way before that thought could finish processing i looked up at my sherpa. His face was stressed, he was looking around. I moved my eyes away from his face, rocks were running down from both sides and mountains towards centre. Earth was shaking about 20degree at random angles. I was trying to run on snow land with crampon, with earth shakes pushing us back to original position, Views of rocks running down from both sides towards us. All we could here was rumble from rocks rolling and earth shaking- high pitch noise. I couldn’t hear anything my sherpa was trying to say, he was running, i was running behind him- many other people around were running towards lobuche away from mountains. I reached near helipad which was situated 300meters from tea houses in Lobuche. I had innocent hope that if mountains are falling, may be the wooden brackets of teahouse will save us (can’t help but that’s what we studied in school under ways of getting saved from earthquake).  I was trying to run closer towards teahouse, still getting pushed by earthquake and he it was- the ONLY 3storey tea house of lobuche came down right in front of my eyes. Half of the area where rooms were just rolled down right in front of my eyes. I was stunned, i didn’t move after that. I had embraced defeat against nature, i had seen the end- all efforts were useless. mountains were falling from both sides and teahouse were falling in front of my eyes. I had accepted, it is the end. 30seconds more or less passed in same state and earthquake went faint and stopped. As all the rumbling stopped from mountains and earth teahouses were still falling- i could hear all the screams, see people caught under rocks and just before i could do anything about it or come out of the accepted defeat against nature everything went poof!!

Not sure if it was effect of avalanche at base camp or earthquake shaken snow mountains visibility got affected getting down to 100meter. I had felt it all,heard all the screams, seen all the people under half fallen teahouse and rocks around. I was still at helipad; shivering  frightened. As i saw the helipad sign i said to my sherpa- as my throat managed to get my shaky voice out- “Dawa!! helicopter!; Those people need help”. He looked at me, held my hand and said look at weather- there is no helicopter coming. Look around- can you see anything. It was true- visibility had got even worse, we were stuck- those people below tea houses, rocks were stuck. If your feet are fine, you walk holding your life. That’s when i realized god, what i have got myself into. Tears were flowing from my eyes, Dawa was pulling me in whichever direction he found to get down and i was just getting pulled along with him. After couple of kilometers visibility got better, people were still climbing up. Everyone going down was yelling and trying to tell people walk back it’s not safe. Walk back, walk back. But it’s hard to convince people who are day far from their dream. We were trying our best to tell people not to climb forward I met many trekkers telling me, they had avalanche last time- it happens don’t worry. I gave up, left those climbers to their destiny. I was trekking downhill- i was scared of mountains for first time in my life, it was snowing all our way downhill from lobuche as well. I was hoping things will be better if we get down. I was thinking t reach periche and maybe stay there for night and head out next.

In all this earthquake sequel my knee had again took toll- i was dragging my leg down.We reached thukla and realized some level of destruction to teahouse. I had tea and pack of oreo in that half fallen tea house. All i was thinking off was to run out of those mountains. I continued walking after that endlessly, making my way through snow, water streams, descends- nothing was same.It wasn’t beautiful, it was pricking cold, scared people and endless walk. About 7.30pm in evening i reached Periche. I was fool to be hoping for better night that day. Tears were frozen by then, dragging leg, snow and wish t get out of there were only few dominant things in memory from that walk.

Destination Periche:

I entered street of periche and here it was all teahouse under pile of stones- we walked from one end to other end- there was nothing- whole village was destroyed. Few locals saw us and said to my sherpa that there is one hotel in back which still partially intact, take her there. I stayed there, took my bags out and sat on chair. locals had fire put on- people were crying looking at their houses. Still locals had loads of guts- they were trying to cook meals for people in such situation, i just had cup of tea and galloped few more glucose tablets. They said there are few rooms, if you want u can sleep in room, but i had no guts to sleep. I sat in wooden lounge, along with other scared trekkers. Eyes started closing due to stress, energy level and cold and here it was next tremor. We all ran out; it was hard to not hit panic after all i had seen that morning. After a hour in freezing cold, we all came back again in tea house. It was impossible to close eyes after that; suddenly i saw headlights outside- i asked Dawa what are they- he quickly walked out and came back.

This was the first time i got to know, about avalanche in base camp. He said base camp is washed out, gorak shep is heavily snowed under- sherpa’s are bringing dead bodies and injured people from base camp. 18 people are died. I was speechless and in tears- the indian group was planning to head to base camp, the chillian couple had just returned from base camp and was planning to climb kala patthar, those mountaineers whom i met in namche, were on base camp- i was shivering in pain. God please no, you can’t kill those people, please- i was praying silently. There was nothing i could do; i was helpless. 4am a doctor came in and said we have a medical center in back- we are trying to do first aid on patients but we have no medical aid left, please give us first aids, bandages and pain killers if you have any. I went to my bag took my kit out and walked upto medical center. I saw one among first 3 alive critically injured patients. They were fractured, bled, unconscious- i ran back to my hotel; i pleaded tourist to give more first aid as doctor told me there are 40 more patients getting evacuated from base camp and they have not even panadol to give. I asked people for meds- took whole stock to first aid center.

Suddenly someone realized that a phone is working in one of the hotels- i ran there, international call 700nepali rs. per minute, i called my tour organizer asked him to get helicopter for my evacuation. Next i called my mom, told er am alive and will take me 4-5 hours to get helicopter out of there. I believed she might have been relived by then, but i had not much time to speak, with long Que of people waiting to dial call.

Medical centre: Periche

Now i was waiting for my helicopter, i left my bags in corner- asked doctor if i can help, he said please do we are just 2 doctors and we need help. Many locals and trekkers were helping in. i started taking patients history and labeling them. Giving them pain killers, based on doctors direction. As a non medico, there was just as much i could do.They started putting patients on floor by removing all tables from wooden lounge of one comparatively safe hotel. There were cranial injuries, ribs fractures, leg fractures, internal bleeding, head cuts, dizzy, injured eyes,arms, broken legs.

I was just taking medical history, name and country to label them and giving pain killers as suggested by doctors. There was this mountaineer from Ireland named “Mark”- he was the first patient i attended, he was talking, seemed settled- as i stood next to him he asked me can you please contact my parents, just tell them am alive.I looked at him, his face was all lacerated, he had spinal injury, he couldn’t lift his back to have medicine or drink water. I ran to doctor asking if we can convey families- he said just note his name and move on, there are more critical patients around. I still walked back and said ” Mark, sorry i can’t call your parents right now; but i have your details, your family will be contacted as you reach kathmandu hospital. I was probably lying without having idea about what is the situation in Kathmandu. He asked me if he can have more water. With a co-trekker named Ruba, i helped him drink water once again by lifting his back up. He lied down after that. There was a patient right next to him who had severe cranial injury- doctor got me to stay next to him and observe his eyeball movements and call him if they stop moving.

I stayed there, helped around other patients. Then in trekkers there was a old french doctor he couldn’t speak english but decided to start stitching the wounds of patients with major cuts.  He walked upto this patient whom i was observing- his one eye lid had major cut and his eye ball was popping out. Doctor decided to start stitching it; in between we were monitoring the evacuation helicopters. We had labelled people with emergency order to get first on helicopters as they start flying to kathmandu (as assumed). While i was helping doctor dressing patient, i realized mark ha stopped moving- i called doctor, we realized his BP is dropped and he went in shock right in front of my eyes-he may be had internal bleeding- which we dint realize due to his mountaineer jacket. He got moved quickly to priority evacuation in helicopter que. Mark’s face is one face, which has been haunting me for i don’t know how many nights- it’s was too hard to take in all that. I can just hope but not even confirm if he ever recovered or never opened his eyes again.

I left that room came back where patients were lying on ground, doctors had realized by then that am not afraid of blood- i helped around few more stitches and dressings after that. I was dragging my leg while going and collecting medical tools, medicines for patients- then there was a point where, i had to give up and crash on ground. Auzi Doctor, whom i was helping asked me if i needed help, i said no doctor just sprained knee- i’ll be fine. It was more necessary for him to help those bleeding oozing, severely injured people than me. I sat for a bit then dragged myself upto area where all tourist donations were kept. i took scissors and strapping tape. Opened my trekking pant at knee; strapped the muscles, took a pain killer. sat there for 10mins. It was almost 2pm in afternoon, most of critical patients were evacuated by helicoptors. there was till que of other patients with minor fractures. After they all left- all the doctors went in and sat down in room and just in those few minutes, here it was next tremor; we all ran toward flat ground again. one wall still managed to fall on two people- doctors and locals ran to help them.

I was exhausted and knee was aweful. I was not able to connect to kathmandu anymore. There were many inhuman people trying to sell helicopter rides for 700$’s cash only. Who the hell takes that much cash on trek??. I was in tears- i again believed i will be just stuck here for another few days until i get buried under pile of rocks. I was demoralized, but was pushing myself to help those remaining patients. Last heli came in and one of the doctors said, you get in it. We can see since morning you can’t walk- get in they will take u out. I looked at my sherpa- they said there only one space. show your insurance to people at ground once you get out of helicopter. It all happened in minutes, i pulled out few thousands and gave it to my sherpa. He was old guys, double my age- but he was left there to struggle. I realized in that minute what money means to life. I was crying for my sherpa- i got pushed in heli and he was left there.

No seat belts/ no seats sitting on my backpack in  a helicopter with almost flimsy door locks. 7 people in 4ppl capacity heli; i looked at glass door of heli and thought what if this door opens with the load we putting on glass- fortunately that didn’t happen. Well i had seen a death at footstep- there was nothing that was bothering enough post that. When we started floating over those mountains i had no idea where it’s taking me- kathmandu/ lukla?.  I was just embracing whatever came’ did i had the option to question or feel nothing but vulnerable- I guess no!. I wished to but couldn’t break into tears cause heyy there was still enough time to reach Australia and i had no clue when or if that’s ever going to happen. I can’t loose my shell of being strong till then. We were in heli for 40 odd minutes flying across cliff’s, peaks, broken villages and layer of fog. Finally i was in lukla the starting point of trek well atleast that was the place am expected to get my flight out from or had it in from.

Return to Lukla:

They dropped me with my two backpacks. i walked out of evacuation area towards rap exit. 20odd kilos in my had with another tiny DSLR camera bag on back. I was tired with endless walk in last 3 days and all that i had seen. The lukla village is semicircular with airport entrance and trek entrance at two low points and then there is possibly 50meter climb upwards to find hotels. I started walking with bag all alone. I had been in this village first 10minutes of my trek start when i landed from flight and started walking to phakding. I didn’t knew where to look for a tea house. I old canadian chap was sitting near helicopter evacuation point over viewing all injured and people being evacuated. He looked at me and said you look terrible, can i help you. I said yes and he picked up my bag for me and helped me find tea house. He waited till i made sure one off 3 tea houses i checked definitely had place to stay. He dropped the bags as i got place and then left. I kept my bags in room took all money passports, visa etc in my trouser pockets. i took out memory cards off camera and put in tiny chained pocket of my trouser. For what i had been through and seen- those pictures were precious than the expensive DSLR.

The caring Host:

I walked out  locking room and came to lounge which was wooden (comparatively less risk). There was no one in lounge- i just lied on one off the benches overlooking runway from glass window. My body was sour may be feverish, had no mind strength left to take on any more shocks, i had no clue about what to expect from tomorrow- i was just there, starring at runway in mountains and valley filled up with clouds. Heart had no courage to ponder over what happened in last two days, it was still hour. After hour i realized i have no energy to close my eyelids and that’s when i asked the old lady running tea house ” shangri la lodge” if i can have tea with sugar. She got a warm mug of black tea asked me if she can make me some food. I asked for dumplings she said i’ll get it. Just when she was walking away and i was returning to my lost status she walked back and tapped my shoulder and said- “It’s ok”. Two words and those eyes had immense energy. I had tea after that and just sat there watching the town out of window clueless.

Her daughter Maya who also worked at airport asked me if i have air ticket to return, that reminded me my sherpa left the ticket in another tea house when we started climbing up. I said yes, i’ll try to get it. I walked around to find that tea house; asked the owner and fortunately he handed me my ticket to fly out on 2nd may 2015. I walked back and showed it to Maya- she told me to walk into airport tomorrow to see if flights are working and if you can prepone your ticket. She also said because of clouds and bad weather there have been nothing but only evacuation heli’s taking critically injured people out in last 2 days, no flights. So don’t get your hopes high. I smiled, last 3 days had been no great for hoping.

The old lady got me food and said once u ready make your way towards tent which is on back open area.The radio news has predicted 7.9 rishter scale earthquake that night with Namche Bazaar as epicenter ( which actually happened on 11th may 2015, later), there was no scope to take a chance and stay in hotel to save yourself from cold. I also met only another tourist an irish guy living in same hotel; he had just reached Lukla by walking from Sieri village for last 5 days and stuck in this village after earthquake. We got headlights and all other stuff walked to a tent. It was big tent which can fit in about 15people. there were two parts of tent one for men and other for women. We lied head to head and legs outwards making it easy to run if earthquake happens. Tent had 4-5doors or zippers. I kept my shoes on because i had seen what can happen in 60seconds; you don’t have time to reach out your leg to tie laces and get out alive.As this village was built in cut outs of mountains- it was no less risky that the previous village i was at. Even after letting my family know we are well and alive- we had no confidence about what could happen in next moment. I slept among unknown nepali family and random trekkers in that tent that night. In mountains people go to bed about 8pm and so we did. 11 pm there was next tremor not as bad but consciously identifiable. By now my body had gone in tremors, so i had no scope to close my eyes. I was just lying on those foam matt in tent not knowing when is end to this all. Sure this wasn’t it.

Next morning day-2 Lukla:

26th april 2015, here it was beginning of new suffering to count the day to reach home/ get out of mountains. Some part of this village was fallen off due to earthquake, but no major fall off’s. Most tea houses had tents outside cause sleeping inside stone walls was not safe due to tremors after every 5odd hours. I had morning tea and walked upto airport. The only cop in airport suggested due to clouds there won’t be flights today. I decided to give it a day; came back to tea house ordered food and was chatting with the irish guy aboout his experience and then amidst all a loud horn rang and he yelled ” earthquake alarm run- he had his feets in sleeping bag he struggled to get out, i ran out and then we realized it was horn to indicate first flight had started from kathmandu. I wonder what would have my pulse rate been in those days. we were yet again safe, we went in had our food. Managed to find money top up for my nepali SIM to contact my family, to talk out and calm them. I met DNA indian news paper reporters that evening , arrived there by heli to take situation coverage and stories. They were first once then i met/ spoke to many of such media people in later days- australian news channels reaching out to people. I was bloody amazed when my family and my both country immigration couldn’t reach me, Indian and auzi media did on phone or in person. Well that’s media for you.

Anyways, I decided to go out for walk that afternoon to see if i could find some of people who were trekking with me, if they were fortunately alive, not injured just like me. I had a disappointed walk except to find Zac and his research assistant Manoj. Exchanged hug, was good to find them alive. Zac was sic and blue with cold but still fine and had medicine to allow coping up. I tried finding Simrik airways airline office to see if tickets can be pre-poned. but the guy managing tickets or accounting for customer was nightmare. He had no answers, was rude human and was cunning enough to ask us, if we want to cancel flights he is ready to pay back. I swallowed all anger and I walked back spent another night in tent and so on.

Day 3- stranded in Lukla: (Arrival of Dawa)

27th April, got up 6 am as regular, had useless discussion with airline guy and was walking back towards shangri la lodge when i bumped into Andreas and Fernanda, can’t explain how good it was to see them. They stayed in same lodge as mine.  Later i walked in and was standing at fence of my tea house, starring at runway and listening to haunting sound of yocow walking with their bells. That’s when someone yelled “Pooja ( that’s me)”. I looked away from run way and here he was my sherpa- dawa. He had his cloths torn, knee bruised, tired. He said i was searching for you in this village for last two ours. I found the indian group, i asked them they saw me. They all said no. He said i was worried as one of the helicopter had fatal accident late the same day i took off. He didn’t knew if i reached alive. He was tired had walked for 2 long days to cover distance between periche and Lukla through landslides at phakding. He hugged me and started crying, i couldn’t help but to shed tears. I took him inside tea house got tea for him,calmed him down a bit. Then he started telling me; his house where we visited on way to phakding is fallen off, his wife is injured and can’t walk. He said, i’ll stay here till you get flight. I looked at him and said no you please go back your family needs you, i’ll find a flight out. He was crying and it was really hard for him to speak and for me to see. I went to room took some cash out and gave him and said keep it, will be useful for you. I wished to give him more but couldn’t as no ATM’s or banks were working in that village, i had no how long i will be stranded in that village and i need money to survive. He left post that.

Walking up to airine office and requesting the airline guy to give a flight ticket was more of regular activity every morning and afternoon by now. While i was heading there i spoke to Maya- she said indian army is in kathmandu trying to reach Lukla but they can’t get authorization from government. In amaze i asked why is that and she sadi- ” China government don’t want indian army to fly near their border, EBC is 60kms away approx from china border, China considered it as threat and was creating border pressure to avoid Nepal to allow Indian army- well that’s what i eard from many locals and Nepali cops”.

When i was walking upto airline office later mom managed to catch the network and called me. While i was talking to her in my mother tongue another indian guy saw me and asked if i was marathi, i said yes and spoke to him. He (Dhawal) was with group of 16 men who met with earthquake at Namche; didn’t get injured and made their way back to Lukla and now were staying there and were trying to get evacuation just like many others in village.

In evening i walked upto place where Dawa indicated Indian group to be- no they weren’t there. It was Kulkarni uncle and Dr, sachin whom i had met on day climbing to Lobuche. They were safe and i was happy to see me fine. Nothing much happened later that night beside me hanging out with Andreas, Fernanda  and their new Canadian mate Steve (who was freaked out and was on calming drugs to be able to be stable). I also me the florida photographer that morning- was glad to see co-trekkers fine and alive. That day was first time we slept in our rooms.

The Irish guy was sleeping in next room to mine divided by wooden board. As he was calm sleeper, he knocked the wall few times to remind me to wake him up if earthquake comes. he said please be my savior. I laughed while getting annoyed with him tapping on wall and talking to me every now and then. Well, everyone was sleepless and  scared- i understand both sides.

Day 4- still in Lukla: First Indian Army Helicopter

Now 28th April, did the daily routine of cross questioning airline guy and stuff. we all were disgusted with airport locals behaving useless asking 400euros or 700$ cash for flight tickets, leaving injured behind on priority to have more money and all that sort of stuff. We had seen extreme good case of humanity from people like our sherpa’s and tea house owners and on other side disgusted lusty humans like airport officials.

As i returned to tea house Maya said, the Australian immigration representative were looking for Australian people, aren’t you from there. I said yes, she continued he is in lodge at other end near airport- go and give him your name may be they are arranging evacuation. Well i had to use all options i had, i rushed to this place left my detail with owner to give it to immigration guy. Just when i was their owner said, are you indian citizen i said yes, i am- she was like- run to airport, i heard indian army is coming to rescue indian people. She picked up my bag from one side- we ran to airport. It was too late, Dhawal’s team had IAS officers and as the rumor came out- that was special helicopter arranged to take those politically important people out.

I was annoyed at my countries government to be saving politicians connections in such horrible situation. Whom i was going to say all that to- well we were all helpless irrespective off which nationality.  I was disgraced by that act of my country- may be i was believing the rumor, but i had no reason not to. We stayed at airport til late that night hoping there will be another helicopters. there were none. I had lost my room in tea house, i went and slept that night in room of someone else by putting my sleeping bag between two beds.

Day 5- Lukla Indeed: Continued disappointments

29th April, same story, I returned to see andreas and fernanda to old tea house. They said we thought you left and were happy someone could get out. I said unfortunately it wasn’t me. I had given up on thought being able to leave that day. We all felt like we belong to series ” Lost” and will never be able to leave that island or these mountains. Rest of day we starred at few airline flights which were taking off and landing hoping that ours will arrive someday. Betting on how many flights will come of which airways and how many people will fly out had been standard practice in last couple of days.  We also sat and thought about what jobs we could do if we get stranded in that village forever- laughed at it. Well, we were in position to laugh now- progress. While i was there,they told me their newly made friend ” Haley from florida” had extra bed in her room and i can use that. i was happy. Fernanda also told me there is hot water shower available for 300Nepali rupee in one of the hotel- we could use that. Well No flights were to happen, we were covered in dust and sweat and god knows what all. Hot water bath seemed like heaven. I moved my small bag in Haley’s room and then had bath.

While i was walking around i met the Canadian old guy from first day- he said you look better now. I said thank you so much for other day- I needed help. When i was walking around a random old lady came and hugged me saying so good to see you- i wondered who she was! She later introduced me to herself, she was nurse from Pittsburgh, who was helping at periche just like me. I was assisting her with stitches and BP monitoring of patients. Well we all had enough to go through in those few days to remember all faces.

Anyways coming back to room, Steve had taken my only single room in hotel which was on ground floor with one bed. I asked if i could leave my 20kg bag in his room considering Haley’s room on 3rd floor. He was happy to do that. I later met group of all 25 Indians who just made their way returning from trek to Lukla, was really glad to see them. And well most happiest point was i met all those base camp mountaineers from 7 summit, injured a bit but they were all alive and in best of their spirits. I hugged the 20year old girl summiteer Priyanka, i again can’t explain in words- how relieving it was to see them alive. Those people who gave me energy to climb after namche to base camp- i was thanking god for saving them. Night went better post that, we had good food that night, went to bed.

Day 6_ Lukla: Evacuation Day

30th April 5 am, sleeping in room and spending all night coughing terribly- I got message from my uncle saying he has contacted army and i will be evacuated by helicopter that day. In last few days, i had spoken to my close family few times and they were trying to get both countries to work for me to be out and had least luck. 6. 30 i was at airport, stayed there till 12pm and finally gave up. I had lost faith on all governments and had no hopes to be able to return.

I was starving, i returned to hotel just when everyone was heading for lunch to this new found dumpling place. I thought well no evacuation at-least food, seems like fine deal. We entered the place ordered food. We were all still starring at flights coming from mountains, all of sudden Andreas yelled Pooja, it’s indian army helicopter. I said no chance, let me eat. He said, just go to airport come back if it doesn’t arrive. But this helicopter is not normal evacuation one, it seems heavy.

I just stood up to take a look from balcony and noticed the military shade. I ran to airport with my bag climbing and descending whole semi circle. Just when i was there, someone said, please let ladies, kids and old age people go. All guys around started throwing my bag ahead and i started running in- finally i was standing next to Army helicopter with my bag. That heli just took females and kids and couple of guys who helped us picking up bags. And helicopter flew, i couldn’t fight my tears anymore nor anyone else in flight could. We were finally out of that village. As we floated between the mountain ranges while looking down from window- there were tears of disappointments, what we had started our trip with and on what note we were finishing it. We had seen the best and worst of our respective life’s. I had seen so many deaths, injured people and deadbodies for first time in my life. It was first big earthquake and one biggest dream completed- everest base camp.

We later got evacuated another military airport in mountains and got moved to different heli which took us to kathmandu. As we reached kathmandu cargo airport, we got taken to army camp site and they gave us food boxes to eat. I called my mum from there and said am in kathmandu and heading to India instead of Australia with government help. While i was there i called my hotel to see if they are still up and if yes i was hoping to get my luggage back. I called them and fortunately they had my luggage at airport in next 20mins. Later we got taken to airport, through standard check-ins at airport and finally we took off with Indian army cargo flight C17 which had 6truck carrying capacity. We at on floor of flight from Kathmandu to Delhi, India with 100 other people. Government rep’s helped me arrange my flight tickets to my maternal city and i reached pune 1st may 2015 6am. I got home, had bath, mum cooked meal, got in bed and I finally took my shoes off after 7 days.

Turning back:

In practice i did not loose anything much or got injured as effect of earthquake or avalanche. But all that I saw in those 7 days taught me lot about life. All those dead, injured people, all those volunteers in periche – all those tears in those eyes, those tears were off strong people. They were not common/ mango people, i have seen it takes more to you to climb that trek than walking to train station in crowd. It’s hard to see tears in those stormy eyes of strong people who are ready to take on the challenge. I could not find Britney and Nova after that earthquake in whole Lukla- i pray someday i will hear they are alive, but i had heard of many people who had passed away or got buried under snow on cho la pass route where they were supposed to be on 25th april.  I wonder if i will ever forget Mark the Irish mountaineer’s face, did he survive after that shock?. Will my guide Dawa, who had been 3 times Everest climber will ever recover from the loss he had and the threat i saw in his eyes? I still run through landslides in my dreams and may be have bought myself a new nightmare for lifetime. I haven’t touched photos of trip even after month of trip cause most things on those captures are now destroyed. The EBC story is not achievement story anymore but a moan story.

What are the odds of facing and living through once in century disaster of himalayas and Nepal and be able to sit safe somewhere at end of world and write this story. Well I should consider myself lucky after this. Beyond all odds Everest will continue charming fierce climbers and trekkers, it will embrace some of them as part of it and rest will return with story of success. Before I die off a random foolish 40% common reason of death, i will return back to sagarmatha national park to complete my remaining gokyo and cho la pass loop or may be Ama dablam base camp and peak and the most difficult descend of namche. Well beyond the pain off incident will last the beauty of those Himalayan ranges. I am haunted with those mountain ranges, the rush in that pain and sense of survival.

Dear Mesmerizing Himalayas I shall return…soon…Love Pooja.